Robinson Crusoe

Day 77: Koh Kong Conservation Area (K) – Krong Koh Kong (K). Looking back over my shoulder I could see the coconut palms and lush vegetation shading the white sandy beach, the clear turquoise waters breaking gently on the shoreline and two sets of footprints: Karen's and mine. Robinson Crusoe and Man Friday?

Cambodia's largest island lies about 15 miles south of Krong Koh Kong, towering over seas so crystal clear we could make out individual grains of sand in 10 feet of water. As a military installation, the island is uninhabited and is strictly off bounds to tourists but in this land where money talks; it didn't take us long to find a sea captain willing to take us through the magnificent mangroves of the Peam Krasop Wildlife Sanctuary and out into the open ocean to one of the islands seven pristine beaches.

Spotted by the Military Police, our boat was soon boarded just a few hundred feet from land, but after a relatively jovial conversation with our captain and payment of a fist full of cold beers, the officials were happy to turn a blind eye to our activities. (It did make us think however, if the going bribe rate for access to an island is a six pack of beers, what would you get if you offered the officials a meal for two with a free bottle of wine at Nando's? The keys to the city of Phnom Penh, perhaps?!)

Wading from the boat through the warm waters to this tropical paradise we could see sand crabs scampering obliviously up and down the beach and colourful shells dotting the shoreline; the sort we had only ever seen before in souvenir shops. Karen, sporting a floral design sarong was creating a similar fascination for the local insect population, as clouds of intrigued flies, wasps and bees followed her every movement along the beach. “You look like Linus from Peanuts”, I said with a snigger. Choosing to ignore my attempt at humour, she batted another bug into oblivion and made her way to the tranquillity and safety of the sea.

Day 77: Total Mileage to Date: 13,979: Number of Time Zones: 10; Number of Countries Visited: 10; Number of Transport Modes Used: 34, Maximum Temperature Encountered: +35C, Minimum Temperature Encountered: -32C.