Sleeping Dogs

Day 73: Sihanoukville (K). Following the turbulence of the overnight tropical storms, Thursday in Sihanoukville dawned with an eerie calm. The strong winds abated, the sea as calm as a millpond; the torrential rains and lightning bolts superseded by a cloudless blue sky – the white beaches dazzling in the early morning sunshine. Still half asleep, Karen and I peered out of our bungalow window at the beautiful sight before us and instantaneously agreed on our plans for the day: We were going to do absolutely nothing!

As Serendipity Beach prepared for another day in the sun, I watched the local beach traders returning light bulbs removed the previous night for safe keeping. Smiling to myself, I realised that with the astronomical cost of electricity in Cambodia, the energy saving light bulbs that they treasured so dearly were more valuable to them that their own stock – which they left unguarded during the night. Turfing the sleeping strays off of a couple of sun loungers (much to the annoyance of the dogs!) Karen and I settled in for the day; to do a little sun bathing, a little people watching and a little snoozing!

Although to be honest, sleeping was never easy with the constant stream of beach hawkers: Fruit, water, lobsters, bracelets, sunglasses – you name it, they had it. Most amusing of all though was the transvestite beautician who, having failed to sell his services to Karen, was determined to wax my back and chest hair. Time for a strategic dip in the sea, I thought!