Border Crossing

Day 20: Dozorny (RUS) – Ulaan Baator (MNG). A solitary eagle, silhouetted against the cloudless blue sky soared high above the barren plains, making the most of the weak thermals. Like the eagle I was transfixed by what lay before me: Overnight the scenery had changed. Long gone were the thick pine forests, little wooden houses and deep snowdrifts of Siberia – replaced by the vast grassy plains of Selenge Gol, surrounded by rolling mountains and just the finest dusting of snow. Despite the southerly latitude; it's land-locked location and it's proximity to the high mountains of Tibet, Mongolia's winter climate is very cold but very dry; consequently snow is a rare occurrence.

Staring through the dirty windows of the train, the landscape was occasionally broken by the presence of a few nomadic sheep herders and their gers (traditional felt tents) dotting the wide grassy expanse. It was a tranquil and dreamlike scene. Which was a good thing, as last nights border crossing was not quite so tranquil and dreamlike!

We arrived at Naushki on the Russian border at about 8pm where we remained for the next four and a half hours whilst the Russian Authorities completed our exit formalities. Passports, visas and registration documents were checked. Money and valuables were declared. Bags, people and trains were searched – and all this time we sat in our compartment – unable to get anything to eat or drink or go to the toilet. And it's funny in those circumstances, how guilty you feel – even if you haven't done anything! Eventually though, after what seemed an eternity, the Russian passport controller, stamped our passport and allowed us to continue with our journey (although, it was touch and go at one point – they really didn't like my beard!)

“Thanks goodness that's all over”, Karen said exhaustedly. Unfortunately, it wasn't. 5 miles down the line we entered the Mongolian passport control. And for the next two hours we had to go through the same protracted process all over again. Arghhh!!