Gorged Out

Day 38: Wushan (CN) – Wuhan (CN). Sometimes travelling can be hard work. Even when you living your life's dream you can still get those days when you think to yourself “There has to be a better way”, For me, today was one of those days.

Since we had been in China, people had told us about the beautiful riverine panorama of the Three Gorges and having reached Wushan by passenger ship, the only way that we now could find to view the Yangzi River's most fabled piece of geology was by joining one of the many organised tourist trips that sailed the gorges. Not just your average tourist trip though – this was a particularly tacky tourist trip in contrast to the way we wanted to travel. This form of travelling involved being herded through the sights without time for contemplation, it meant buying souvenirs rather than taking away lifetime memories, and it meant noise and crowds rather than peace and tranquillity. And on top of all of this, I was cold again! Even though we were at a latitude similar to that of the Canary Islands, the temperature was only just above freezing, a cold wind was blowing and I was back to wearing my thermals and my woolly hat.

But despite my annoyance and my resulting bad mood, nothing could dilute the outright natural beauty of the Qutang, Wu and Xiling gorges. Rising dramatically into view, their cliffs jutting out in jagged and triangular chunks rising to just under 3,000 feet tall; the peaks often disappearing into the ethereal layers of mist. Even with the constant plugs to 'buy the DVD' this made for an incredible experience.

Things got a little better over dinner though and I even managed to crack a smile. Sitting with a group of Chinese people on holiday from Beijing, they were concerned as to the whereabouts of our Tour Guide. When we explained that we didn't have a guide and we had travelled independently from England they appeared quite shocked. Their perception of 'foreigners' was they only ever travel in groups and always with a tour guide!